須知(4)調味

這篇和(須知2:作料)相似而不相同。前篇是談如何選醬、油、酒、醋等作料的上品,此篇談如何選擇及搭配調味料,就編排而論,此篇於先才合理。此篇也寫得太短,不明白,尤其最後兩句(有以乾燥為貴者…)給譯者帶來麻煩,考慮再三之後,所呈現的譯文應該很接近,它的意思是要鎖住食物之味,用快炒,要讓湯類飄香,用清湯,裡面食物還要浮出湯面,很合理啊!「腥」和「鮮」都沒有直接對應字,只能多寫一些字描述,「鮮」用日本字umami, 這種用法日漸普遍。

須知單:調劑

調劑之法,相物而施。有酒、水兼用者,有專用酒不用水者,有用水不用酒者;有鹽、醬並用者,有專用清醬不用鹽者,有用鹽不用醬者;有物太膩,要用油先炙者;有氣太腥,要用醋先噴者;有取鮮必用冰糖者;有以乾燥為貴者,使其味入於內,煎炒之物是也;有以湯多為貴者,使其味溢於外,清浮之物是也。

Consider the nature of the food and adjust the seasoning accordingly. The choices are:  wine and water, only wine, only water, sauce and salt, only sauce, only salt. 

When food is greasy, grill it with oil to alleviate the grease. When food smells unpleasant because of its rawness, add a splash of vinegar. Use rock sugar to release the umami  from food. Pan-fry or stir-fry food with a dry heat can retain the flavor of  the ingredients. Clear soupy dishes with buoyant ingredients are easier to spread the flavor around.  #

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