菜單(1) 鮮味素麵, 有如加了味精

有人要素菜好吃,做法繁複,袁枚卻有一個素麵素做的方法,我試過,味鮮嚇了我一跳。我先生除全部吃完外,還高興地喊道:「沒有鹽, 我吃得出來!」

故事為:袁枚訪問寺廟,吃到此素麵,念念不忘,可惜僧人不外傳,袁枚就讓家廚試之,得如下結論。

(原文)

先一日將蘑菇熬汁,澄清;次日將筍熬汁,加麵滾上。此法揚州定慧庵僧人製之極精,不肯傳人。然其大概亦可仿求。其純黑色的,或云暗用蝦汁、蘑菇原汁,只宜澄去泥沙,不重換水;一換水,則原味薄矣。

Simmer the mushrooms to make broth, then let it clarify overnight. The next day, simmer the bamboo shoots , and add noodles to both the bamboo and mushroom broth. 

The Monks in Dinghuei Temple of Yangzhou made the best such noodles, but they were unwilling to share the recipe. My method approximates the flavor I remembered. In such cases when the broth appears black, I believe shrimp broth has been used.  

For clear mushroom broth, just let it sit and clarify. Never change water for it would render the broth less tasty.

上述真再簡單不過,就是蘑菇和筍熬汁,加麵而已。今人也深知蘑菇汁在營養、調味上的好處,將其飛揚光大,在做蘑菇汁時,加上其他果蔬,只是唯不見加筍,也許筍配香菇就是袁枚獨到之處?下面來看看矽谷著名烹調高手Cary在這方面的淵源和獨創。

{今人體驗 } 特別來賓:矽谷Cary 廚娘

父母親都是日系教育,小時候常常在父母親旁磨蹭。父親喜歡用小魚干、海帶、香菇、熬高湯。長大之後喜歡徜徉在廚房裡面摸東摸西,有一次用松茸菇研磨成粉當調味料。

之後喜愛清蔬高湯,曾用蘿蔔葉、牛蒡、白蘿蔔、紅蘿蔔、香菇熬成「五行蔬菜湯」。近年來爲健康取向,研學蔬菜濃湯底: 紅蘿蔔、芹菜、蘑菇、馬鈴薯、南瓜熬煮高湯,然後用美善品打成濃湯底,各種不同的湯底可以料理出中日西各種不同口味的佳餚。

(註:美善品Thermomix為多功能處理機,價$1000美元以上,除了不能烤外什麼都可以做)

今日的蘑菇湯講究濃稠,以澆在食物上增添香味(尤其是西菜),其實樸實無華的清湯更鮮美,袁枚如是說

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