戒單(1) 多加一勺油,俗!

和「須知篇」相對應的,是「戒篇」,這裡袁枚充份發揮率真犀利本事,對不順眼的飲食習慣,不合理的烹調方法毫不留情。另外他對浪費食材深惡痛絕,甚至為了殺生而導至的動物痛苦,也多所呼籲。文人畢竟對人世多一份惻隱之心,動物權的觀念已在300年前萌芽。

各位有沒有這種經驗?事情做完了,忽然覺得要多加一杯米,多加一勺鹽,多吃一塊餅乾,甚至多買一雙鞋子,結果發現,那個加碼,都是多餘,此篇就在討論此事。

原文: 開篇 】

為政者興一利,不如除一弊,能除飲食之弊,則思過半矣。

原文: 戒外加油 】

俗廚製菜,動熬豬油一鍋,臨上菜時,勺取而分澆之,以為肥膩。甚至燕窩至清之物,亦復受此玷污。而俗人不知,長吞大嚼,以為得油水入腹。故知前生是餓鬼投來。

【 英譯

Forward

For politicians to put forth a new, exciting policy would be less than to eliminate an old, bad one. Likewise, eliminating bad culinary habits could amount to having attained a significant portion of the cooking knowledge.  

Not that extra lard

How pitiful that a cook would prepare a pot of hot lard to pour on a freshly-done dish by the spoonful, believing it would enhance the richness of the food. Sometimes ordinary chefs as such went so far that a bird’s nest, the most delicate and clear dish of all dishes, could not escape such ill fate. 

Equally unforgivable are the people who gulp down the food and praise its greasy richness. Are they simple or ignorant? They must be hungry, reincarnated ghosts. 

【 世界觀

說到油膩,許多德州烤肉迷堅信,堆積的油脂對健康有益。

Many Texas barbecue fanatics have a strong belief in the beneficial properties of accumulated grease

-Calvin Trillin

【 私記

  1. 袁老只提豬油,未提植物油,不知加一勺植物油是否ok? 畢竟我媽教我做清蒸魚,就要最後澆一匙菜油上去,「這樣才香!」她堅持。
  2. 300年前有沒有植物油?有,多著呢!無論中外,植物油幾千年前就被發現,只是限於工具,不能大量擷取。中國人最早拿芝麻油照明,後來用在飲食上。明朝崇禎年間宋應星著有「天工開物」,是中國歷代工藝的百科全書,內有「膏液篇」(古代把「油」稱為膏),寫著「凡油供饌食用者,胡麻、莱菔子、黄豆、菘菜子為上」。這還是上品油,他還列出一系列的中品油和下品油,文中還配有當時民間榨油的插畫。
  3. 動物油和植物油最大的差別,是前者無法開「油品品嚐會」。君不見橄欖油多麼風光,而豬油再怎麼由天皇老子的品種中榨出,也無緣就口味和香氣供人逐一鑑賞,還收錢!
  4. Calvin Trillin (1935-)是美國記者,美食及幽默作家,生於密蘇里州,著作等身。

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