菜單(4)黃魚2吃

今人可選吃魚排,不必處理刺的問題,但如果想選用全魚,刺要如何解決呢?袁枚有好方法:1. 用快刀刮取魚片,用鉗抽其刺。2.用快刀將魚背斜切,使碎骨盡斷。他不主張把魚刺炸酥的方法,稱之為「駝背夾直,其人不活」,硬要把駝背的人弄直,反置人於死,就是矯枉過正。

黃魚(yellow croaker)是太平洋西岸(黃海地區)很容易買到的魚,維基百科以韓國黃花魚(Gulbi)為文化代表。袁枚的重點為此魚為濃厚之物,所以烹調時不能用「清」法,而要用「濃」法。

原文: 黃魚切小塊,醬酒郁一個時辰,瀝乾。入鍋爆炒兩面黃,加金華豆豉一茶杯,甜酒一碗,秋油一小杯,同滾。候鹵乾色紅,加糖,加瓜薑收起,有沉浸濃郁之妙。又一法,將黃魚拆碎,入雞湯作羹,微用甜醬水、芡粉收起之,亦佳。大抵黃魚亦係濃厚之物,不可以清治之也。

Method 1: Cut the yellow croakers into small chunks. Marinade the chunks with the mixture of soy sauce and wine for a day. Drip dry. Fry the pieces until both sides are golden brown, then add a small cup of Jinhua Douchi, a bowl of sweet wine, a small cup of autumn sauce [1] , and bring to a boil and simmer. When the sauce has reduced and turned red, add sugar, pickled cucumber and ginger, and continue to simmer until dry. This process will ensure the dish has a deep, rich flavor.

Method 2: Shred only the fish meat, and cook it with chicken broth while lightly season it with sweetened soy sauce, and add adequate amount of corn starch to make it into a thick soup.

Note: 簡言之,(1)法是紅燒,(2)法是做成魚羹。袁枚常提到「秋油」,那是古時在秋天時釀出的好醬油,今日已不可得,就選用您認為最好的醬油吧!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: