菜單(3) 淡菜和海蝘

淡菜是mussel, 為何有這個和海鮮完全不搭的名字,值得深究。在貝類方面,中文有蠔、蜆、蛤、蚶、蟶、蠣、蚵等不同的字,很難辨別,英文比較簡單,可大分為三類:oyster(蠔), mussel(淡菜)和clam(蛤蜊),區分如下(網路照片):

mussels, 淡菜,殼色深,長尖形,用酒炒,中外皆愛
Oysters, 蠔,殼色淡, 橢圓形,可生吃,可養珍珠,中外皆愛,
clams, 蛤蜊,殼色淡,扁平形,蒸之,中外皆愛

但海蝘是什麼?根據文中描述,就是寧波地區特產小魚,又寫成海蜒、或稱丁香魚,其實超市裡常見的或溼或乾的鹹性小魚都屬此類。牠們有一通稱叫whitebait (台灣稱為吻仔魚),指某些魚類的魚苖。自古以來全世界都在吃這種小魚,只是各地區有不同品種。清朝寧波史學家全祖望對此小魚有詩讚道:「一瓶蟹甲純黃醬,千箸魚頭細海蜒。」

當食材有天然美味,真是不需人類多做什麼。

(原文) 淡菜煨肉加湯,頗鮮,取肉去心,酒炒亦可。

Braising mussels with pork, making it into a fresh, tasty soup. Or remove the innards of the mussels and cook the remaining meat with wine.

(原文) 海蝘,寧波小魚也,味同蝦米,以之蒸蛋甚佳。作小菜亦可。

Haiyen (whitebaits) are small fish from Ningpao. Its taste approximates that of dried shrimps. Adding it to steamed eggs would please your palate. It could be served as a side dish as well.

台灣的吻仔魚蒸蛋,就是極佳代表

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: